A sake drinker Ichibay reports events that occur in his daily life and coveys his casually conceived ideas, focusing especially on sake and sake-related items and events. He sometimes writes about his short trips in his country Japan or provides some Japanese cultural stuff related to kimono, local performing arts, etc.
Recently, I
dropped in a cocktail bar, and ordered wine and some cheese. I liked cheeses
with the red wine, especially Brie de Meaux and Camembert de
Normandie were my favorites.
When enjoying
my cheese with wine, the bar manager, knowing that I was a big sake fan, told
me about a new izakaya in my city.
According to
him, an izakaya opened recently on the opposite side of the railroad.
"The opposite side of the railroad" for him means my side of the
railroad because my house is on the side opposite to the bar.
He told me
that the izakaya carried an unusually wide selection of sakes. Excited
at the news, I could not help stopping wine to leave for that izakaya
soon. So, paid for my two glasses of wine and cheese and left the bar.
According to the instructions by the bar manager, I walked across the railroad
at the nearest crossing and went to the T-junction, where I took the left. I
could easily found the lighted sign of the izakaya "絆" (Kizuna)
from quite a distance.
I could
narrowly peep into the restaurant through a small latticework pane on the front
door. I went inside, and there was no customer. There was a counter and a few
tables. The structural design of the restaurant was like that of a bar or karaoke
snack bar.
The interior
wall was light-colored fake-wood-grain finished. You could tell the izakaya
Kizuna had just started its operation from arranged flowers placed in corners
of the restaurant.
Just the
manager and I were there, and I could enjoy sake in a quiet environment.
When I looked
in the menu, there was a long list of sake brands. There were Yukinobosha,
Okunokami, Yuho, Dassai, Nabeshima, Juyondai, Oroku, Tensei, Jikon, Hoka, Mutsu
Hassen, Yamayu, Gorin, Kudoki Jozu, Nambubijin, etc. According to the manager, the
izakaya carries about 30 types of sake, focusing on Akita
and Yamagata
sake.
Being very
happy with such a variety of sake, I thought this izakaya was a good
place for going alone for some good sake. I thought I would be able to sit at
the counter and enjoy talks with the izakaya manager if the place was
not very crowded.
I sometimes drink muroka or muchoseigenshu
(non-filtered or non-conditioned undiluted sake) after adding some water or
some other dry sake to it. This is quite interesting. I quite recently found
this way of "processing" sake interesting when I dropped in an izakaya, ordered a muroka namazake (non-filtered non-pasteurized sake) and some dry
sake, tasted them together after mixing them, and found mixing two different sakes
very interesting.
On the last
20, March, a Japanese national holiday, I received Sawanoi Asagake-no-sake. This
sake was special sake sold on a subscription basis, which I had before asked a
sake shop to deliver to me.
On that day,
I had a short hike on a hill in Ome city, and then visited one of my favorite
places, Sawanoi-en. There was the izakaya
Sawanosuke, which was a half-open-air sake bar set up in Sawanoi-en. So, I sat
there to cure my fatigue from the long walk, and had some beer and sake. After
drinking some alcohol, I thought I should skip today's evening drink. However, when
I returned home, I found the bottle of Asagake-no-sake had been waiting for me.
So, quite naturally, I needed to reward the sake for its having been waiting
for me so long by appreciating its taste.
This
just-pressed, non-filtered, undiluted sake was still fermenting in its bottle,
but since fermentation had not advanced very much, the pressure inside pushed
up the cap just slightly when I opened the bottle.
I felt a rich
taste and very strong alcohol when I had the first sip. The label on the bottle
indicated the alcohol percentage was 19 to 20%. I feel many genshu sakes (undiluted sakes) from this
brewery have relatively high alcohol content (when I made umeshu from a genshu of
Sawanoi, it had 21 to 22% of alcohol).
On that
evening, I drank about 1-go (180 ml)
of this sake at a room temperature. Maybe, it will be interesting if I try on
the rocks, with water, warmed, or blended with some other sake. I want to try
it in many ways.
Today, I
provide you the movie showing how I enjoyed the hike I mentioned above. I
included the scene where I started walking, departing from Ome Station, to the
scene I drank soothing beer at Sawanoioen. This is a relatively long footage of
over seven minutes. So, if you have time, enjoy seeing it.
Umenoyado
Tokubetsu Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu Kimoto (梅乃宿特別純米無濾過生原酒生酛) is non-pasteurized sake, which gives a strong impression. It may
have too bold but is certainly my favorite sake.
Nonetheless,
I tried to moderate its boldness somewhat by adding some water to it. The sake,
after water being added, became quite acid and crisp. This was for me very interesting
change in taste.
And then, I
warmed this sake. First, it tasted sweetish and it seemed that the originally
well-balanced sweetness and acidity became more separate from each other and
more discernible. However, it turned, when I drank the warmed sake with supper,
that this warmed sake could be paired well with various foods.
The taste of
one sake varies depending on how you like it. This is interesting.
The Sunday of
the last week was a cold day, and my fancy for warmed sake increased. So, I
went to Izakaya Sawanosuke at Sawanoien with my friend. They operate this izakaya only on weekends, but this is a
nice place to drink warmed sake in the daytime. Actually, since Sawanoien is
open only in the daytime, Sawanosuke closes the operations late-afternoon.
Quite
unfortunately, Sawanosuke was not operating on that day. Last year, I had also
the same experience. It was as if I had known non-business days of the izakaya, and has selected such days. I
am so unlucky about this izakaya.
It was a cold
day and it was hard to drink cold sake in such a condition. We wanted to leave
Sawanoien and go to some warm place to drink sake.
Anyway, we
had lunch first at the Mameraku, tofu restaurant, on the premises, and had some
sips of sake at Kikisake Dokoro (sake tasting corner) as we usually do when we
visit the place. Then, we left Sawanoien for Tachikawa.
We got to
Tachikawa around 4 o'clock in the afternoon. It was still too early for normal izakayas to open. However, there are
usually some exceptional izakayas.
Kaisen Uoriki is one of such exceptional restaurants. So, we entered the Kaisen
Uoriki on the south exist-side of Tachikawa Station.
By the way,
is this izakaya a chain store? I see
Kiasen Uoriki in several places. I know there are at least two Uoriki izakayas in Tachikawa, and there is one
in Akishima, so they are probably chain izakayas.
In the past, chain izakayas did not carry very good sake, but lately they have
good menus. Actually, this Uoriki also had a relatively nice selection of sake.
Otohshi appetizers neatly arranged on a plate
were good enough for pairing with sake. As to foods at this izakaya, sashimi was nice, and they had also nice sushi, which you may want
to eat as a wind-up food.
We ordered
Gazanryu Hazuki Muroka Namazake, which was sake rich in taste and went well
with kinmedai kabuto ni (boiled head
of an alfonsino fish flavored with soy sauce, sugar, sake, and other
seasonings) Then, we ordered Yukimuro, sake from Gunma Prefecture made from
Gohyakumangoku sake rice. This was quite dry and flinty sake.
Then, I have
an inspiration. I poured some of the half left Gazanryu in my cup and then
added Yukimuro to it, blending the two sakes fifty-fifty. This blend sake
tasted basically like Gazanryu, but it had increased mildness and sweetness,
became easier to drink, and went good with foods. I found that blending two
sakes in one's own way was also a pleasure of sake drinking.
And, here is
today's video. I compared two warmed Tokyo
sakes, Sawanoi and Kasen.
Last
Saturday, I attended a sake drinking party held in an izakaya in TachikawaCity.
This izakaya is holding sake drinking parties
at a rate of twice a year and gather their frequent customers to a party. This
time, attendees paid reasonable admittance of 5,000 yen and could drink almost
all the types of sake at this izakaya.
So, this was a nice reasonable party for sake drinkers.
We had a sake
tasting game during the party. The following is what the tencho, or izakaya
manager said to us:
"There
are four bottles numbered 1, 2, 3, and 4. Two bottles contain different types
of that famed Juyondai, and others contain some other sake. First, taste all
the sake types in these bottles, and then you must choose the two bottles that
you think are Juyondai. I will give you a glass of very special and expensive
sake if you choose the right bottles."
I thought,
"I see, this will be difficult for me. To distinguish sake is not very
difficult for me, but to name sake is very difficult." So, I decided to
use the tactics to select two most balanced and elegant bottles.
Bottle 1: Richness,
bouquet, acidity, and other elements were well balanced leaving a favorable
impression. I personally loved it, but it had rather strong impact. I think
expensive sake is modest in many cases.
Bottle 2: This
was rich and elegant. I thought this was a right bottle.
Bottle 3: I
felt a strong alcoholic impression and I didn't like it very much. So, I
excluded this bottle from the candidates.
Bottle 4: Clear
and light sake, and I liked it. Someone told me that this tasted like an
alcohol added sake version of bottle 2, and I agreed with her.
So, I chose
bottles 2 and 4. However, actually the correct bottles were bottle 2 and bottle
3. The no. 3 bottle I first excluded from the candidates was Juyondai Honmaru.
Incidentally, the one I liked best was Sasaichi from YamanashiPrefecture.
As to bottle 4, I forget the name.
Speaking of
sake tasting, the izakaya carried two
types of NINE from Tsuji Honten. One was namazake,
non-pasteurized sake, and the other was hiire,
pasteurized sake. So, I compared them.
I first drank
this sake in autumn of 2010. It was a hiyaoroshi
sake. Then, I found this was my taste.
(In the
article "NINE and sake with a self-heating system" I wrote at that
time, there is the
following description: From this name of bodaimoto,
I thought that the flavor of the sake was old-fashioned and crude. No, this is
very sophisticated sake. It is very rich in taste and, at the same time,
delicate. I like the moderate sweetness of this sake. This is hiyaoroshi sake, which means the sake
has been pasteurized once. However, I hardly feel anything caused by
pasteurization, and the flavor of this sake gives me a crispy and brisk
impression of namazake.)
In the party
this time, when I drank the hiire, I
felt a bit of bouquet caused by aging and richness in taste, and I thought this
was tasty. And, just in front of me was some fatty nice sashimi, making good paring with this sake. Then, I tried the namazake, this was clear and a bit
young, leaving a remote impression. It seemed to be shiboritate and too fresh, but maybe it would become mature after
some period of aging. Interesting!
Well, I
selected the movie below for today. The sake I am drinking in the movie is
Sawanoi Risshun Asashibori, which is another shiboritate, but enough enjoyable.
For the
Japanese, sake is not a mere alcoholic beverage but it is very special. Since
early times, sake was given important roles and appeared in various scenes such
as in ceremonial occasions for the coming of age, marriage, funeral and
ancestral worship, religious rituals, prayer for victory by samurais.
In these days, people have a
wide range of choice of alcoholic drinks and beer and other beverages have
gained in popularity. However, when it counts, sake is a must. I have never
heard that they exchange cups of wine in Shinto wedding ceremony
Low priced sake is enough for evening drink. Sake
drunk feelingly in the evening gently praises the effort and industry of the
drinkers on the day, give their mind and body energy, and restores the drinkers'
will to work hard again tomorrow. Such sake is nice sake.
The video I
present below was a commercial message of sake that was once being produced in IwatePrefecture,
and I think this short movie is well depicting how people enjoy and love sake.
The following
is the lyrics of the song, with their reading and my translation:
岩手故郷よ (Iwate furusato yo: Iwate my homeland)
やさしい郷だよ (Yasashii kuni dayo: is a gentle land.)
雨も風もな (Ame mo kaze mo na: Rain and wind,)
人情もまろいよ (Ninjo mo maroi yo: and also peoples heart are mellow and round.)
遠く離れてもよ (Toku hanaretemo yo: Even apart far away,)
心は帰るよ (Kokoro wa kaeruyo: my heart returns home)
牛追い唄がな聞こえる道をよ
(Ushioiuta ga na kikoeru michi wo yo:
along the way hearing someone's song driving cows.)
心の酒です岩手川 (Kokoro no sake desu
Iwategawa The soul sake Iwategawa)
Unfortunately,
the brewery was closed down in 2006, and we can't drink this sake any longer.
Yes, I know,
it's already 2012, but I must finish this post before writing something
suitable for the New Year.
September
There is a
small settlement in the Mine district in the Okutama area of Tokyo. This settlement is a so-called
marginal settlement, suffering depopulation and aging of its residents. On one Sunday
of September, three-lion dances were performed at Hanaire Shrine in this
district.
My car drove
along the north shore of Okutama Lake, tuned left halfway, went northward
along the MinedaniRiver, and then went up
the narrow road on the slope on the left. This was a quite steep slope. Around
8:30, I got the MineSeikatsuKaizenCenter (LifeImprovementCenter).
This place is
at 760 meters above the sea level. There is a small field full of white
buckwheat flowers. I saw red dragonflies flying here and there (this species is
seen only on highlands in this season).
According to
an old villager, there were only 15 households in this district, while one band
of three-lion dance consists of 16 people. There were only few people, so it is
very difficult to maintain this performing art. Actually, some performers are
now living in other towns or cities and they return to this district on the
performing day for the performance. However, there are not enough people for
the performance and they do not have members who play bamboo fifes. So, they
need to play back taped fife music when they perform dances.
These lion
dances could successfully and uneventfully be performed this year, but how
about next year? I am afraid that they are on the verge of discontinuation.
October
October 1 is
the sake day, and I attended an event called "Tokyo Sake Train" on
this day.
In this event,
a monorail train on the Tama Monorail line was chartered and sake drinking
party was held on this train. The train left at the northernmost terminal
Kamikitadai, running southward to reach the TamaCenter,
the southernmost terminal, and then went backward to reach Tachikawa-Kita
Station.
The Tama
Monorail line is not a long line and the train ran just short distances in this
event. If you take a train and ride on it along the same course as above, it
takes only 55 minutes. So, first I was afraid that we could not drink very much
because of short time. No problem! The train stopped at Tama Center Station for
about an hour. During this stop, we could continue talking with people and
enjoying drinking. In addition, President Ishikawa from Ishikawa Brewery in FussaCity
played harmonica for us (he is a good harmonica player).
So, we could
get friendly with fellow passengers and have a nice raucous drinking party.
Our sake
train was approaching to the final destination of Tachikawa-Kita Station, and
it was already after dark. Suddenly, the lights in the train went out, and the
city lights in turn gained their luminosity. Viewing a nightscape from a
running train in this way was a quite rare and fantastic experience.
November
I attended a soba (buckwheat noodles) making class
held in OmeCity.
The place of
the class was facilities where visitors can enjoy a BBQ. So after the class, we
had a BBQ party, of course with sake.
I brought a
special sake gadget called kandouko
(sake warmer using charcoal) and used it to prepare warmed sake. I used the kandouko also for grilling mushrooms and
other foods. It was also interesting to warm a food can on the grill of the kandouko.
We tried a
new way of eating grilled mushrooms; grill some mushrooms; warm a shellfish
can; dip grilled mushrooms in the shellfish soup; and eat them. However the
soup was too sweetish!
December
I went to the
amusement park Yomiuriland, where an electric spectacular event called Jewellmination
was being held. However, my purpose was not seeing these LED ornament but
drinking. In this amusement park, they had set up temporary food stands, which
were collectively named the Jewel Hot Dining, and one of the food stands was carrying
sake, and other alcohol beverages. Actually, one of my drinking friends is a
key person of the park and had been engaged in this food service since its
planning stage. He seemed to have been exercising his power to realize his
ideal izakaya in the park. There were
five food stands and one carried a menu quite looking like that of an izakaya specialized in jizake (local sake). Besides sake, there
were, draft beers, whiskies, wines, shochu,
and others. Moreover, snacks and foods selected by him made good pairing with
the drinks.